Questions to ask a US factory before your first small run

The first call with a factory is mostly about finding out whether you fit, so nobody spends weeks on a project that dies at the quote. These are the questions worth asking, roughly in order. Copy the ones that apply and send them with your tech pack.

Fit: is this the right shop?

• Do you regularly sew this kind of garment and fabric? Knits, wovens and stretch use different machines. Swim and activewear need coverstitch and flatlock. Leather is its own trade. A "yes, we do everything" deserves a follow-up: "what's a recent example?"
• Do you sew in-house, or place work with partner factories? Both can be fine, but you should know. Some listings here are agencies or placement services, like Plucky Reach and ljoSew.
• What's a typical run for you? A shop whose sweet spot is 2,000 pieces may take your 50 but put it at the back of the line.

Minimums and pricing

• Is your minimum per style, per color, per size, or per order? (See what MOQ really means.)
• What does a sample cost, and what does it include? Published examples vary widely; see the comparison below.
• Are pattern-making and grading separate line items? AVMADE, for example, quotes design and tech-pack work at $95 an hour in advance.
• Can you quote at two or three quantities? It shows you where the price breaks are. The Evans Group (TEG) costs projects at three volume levels.
• How long is the quote good for? ljoSew says 30 days.

Samples

• How many sample rounds are included, and what does each extra round cost? Plan for more than one.
• How long does a sample take? Published sample times run from 1 to 2 weeks (Final Row Studio, At the Venue (Glory NYC knitwear)) to about 6 weeks (AVMADE).
• Will production match the approved sample exactly? Same fabric lot? Same machines?

Production

• What's the lead time from approved sample and fabric in hand? For small batches, Fashion Solutions NYC lists 4 to 8 weeks and Final Row Studio 4 to 6.
• Who sources fabric and trims, and what are their minimums?
• Do you pre-shrink or test the fabric? Shrinkage after the first wash is a common first-run complaint.
• How do you inspect finished goods, and what happens to defects? Ask what defect rate they consider normal and whether flawed pieces are remade or credited.

Money and terms

• What deposit do you need, and when is the balance due? Published examples: ljoSew takes 50% up front and 50% at shipment. Transcend asks a 50% deposit on projects over $500.
• What happens if I cancel or change something after cutting?
• Are shipping, packing, folding and bagging included?

Ownership and labels

• Do I own the pattern files and grading, and can I take them elsewhere? It matters the day you outgrow the shop.
• Will you sew in my labels, and do I supply them? Finished garments need fiber content, country of origin, and your company name or RN number on the label ¹. You can look up or register an RN with the FTC ².
• Making kids' sizes? Children's products need third-party testing and a Children's Product Certificate ³. Ask whether the factory has done this before.

Red flags

Ready to shortlist? Search the directory by city, minimum and product type, or start with Los Angeles or New York City.

Sources

1. FTC: Threading Your Way Through the Labeling Requirements Under the Textile and Wool Acts
2. FTC: RN database search
3. CPSC: Children's Product Certificate

Factory facts come from each factory's public pages as summarized in our listings, checked Nov 3, 2026. Each factory card links to its listing, which links to the factory's own source. Minimums and prices change, so confirm with the factory. This guide is general information, not legal advice.